Bordeaux comes of age

By Jonathan Ray

Cheap and cheerful: the Bar à Vin, close to the Grand Théâtre, has wine at rock-bottom prices Photo: PHILIPPE ROY The city of Bordeaux is buffed and polished as never before. When I first got to know it many years ago it was a dump, down at heel and dreary. But now, thanks largely to the efforts of the mayor – former French prime minister Alain Juppé – the capital of the wine world's most celebrated region is gleaming from top to toe.

Buildings have been cleaned and refurbished, new tramlines laid, streets pedestrianised, underground car parks built, the riverside re-cobbled and the night-time tarts moved on. There are swish new hotels, swanky haute couture shops, state-of-the-art wine bars, tasting rooms, bottle shops and an increasing number of Michelin-starred restaurants.

Australian wine's exciting heritage Bordeaux is now vraiment chic and there is much to enjoy, although nothing is cheap and there are still several underwhelming, overpriced restaurants to catch out the unwary. And please note, if you fancy buying a few fine bottles to take home, they are likely to be costlier than in the UK.

When I started in the trade Bordeaux was somewhere you went to for as short a time as possible, to do the deals and get out. Now it's a real pleasure to visit and explore. It's easy to get to, with regular flights from the UK and, if you need a further reason to go, how about the famous Fête le Vin coming up on June 24-27?

Here are some of my personal tips to help you plan a trip.

If dialling from the UK, preface all numbers below with 00 33 and omit the first zero.

Where to taste/buy wine

Max Wine Gallery (05 5729 2381; maxbordeaux.com)

A brand-new tasting room offering crus classés by the glass (2.5cl, 5cl and 7.5cl), thanks to several Enomatic dispensers. If you want to say you had a glass of Château Lafite or Château Mouton while in Bordeaux, this is the place to go – but it ain't cheap.

Le Bar à Vin (05 5600 4347; baravin.bordeaux.com)

A light, spacious wine bar attached to L'Ecole du Vin. Heavily subsidised by the CIVB (the Bordeaux producers' association), it has a fascinating range of wines by the glass at disarmingly rock-bottom prices. Located 100 yards from the Grand Théâtre, it's a great place to meet people.

L'Intendant Wine Shop (05 5648 0129)

Take the lift to the top of L'Intendant's tower and walk down the quirky corkscrew-shaped staircase lined with bottles from every region of Bordeaux. Almost every cru classé is represented here and the well-informed staff are happy to advise. There's a greater range than you will find in Britain – but at
greater prices.

Boozy places to eat

Le Bistrot du Gabriel (05 5630 0030; bistrot.bordeaux-gabriel.fr)

In the Place de la Bourse, overlooking the quayside miroir d'eau, Le Bistrot is upstairs at Le Gabriel, basking in its first Michelin star. With dishes such as terrine of beef cheek, roast bone marrow on toast or chicken with fresh peas and lemon, the style is rustic French and delicious.

Au Bonheur du Palais (05 5694 3863; abdp.free.fr)

Tucked away down a dreary backstreet and looking distinctly down-at-heel, this is said to be France's finest Chinese restaurant. Don't laugh; the food is astonishing and better than anything I've had in either China or Hong Kong. Delight in such dishes as stir-fried breast of pigeon or Chinese-style lampreys accompanied by some crisp Entre-deux-Mers or succulent Sauternes.

Café Opéra (05 5644 0700; jegher.fr/pages/opera.php)

Set in part of the handsome Grand Théâtre, this boasts a simple but well executed menu, coupled with very well-priced claret. Try and grab a table outside and settle back to watch the world go by.

Where to stay

The Regent (05 5730 4444; theregentbordeaux.com)

Right opposite the Grand Théâtre, this could hardly be more central. Jacques Garcia's brothel-chic design might not appeal to all, but it's the poshest place in town (and the priciest). The Regent's fine-dining Le Pressoir d'Argent has just nabbed its first Michelin star and, if you can afford it, it's a fine spot in which to sluice.

Hôtel de Normandie (05 5652 1680; hotel-de-normandie-bordeaux.com)

Basic but central, this is where most members of the English wine trade stay when in town (if not at the even more humble Hôtel de Sèze). Rates start at £77 for a standard room and go up to £248 for "grand confort", with breakfast an extra £12.

Le Vieux Biac (06 2306 1752; chateaubiac.com)

Half an hour from Bordeaux, Le Vieux Biac is a restored farmhouse in the middle of the Château Biac vineyard in the Cadillac appellation. With stunning views of the River Garonne, it's a sweet, secluded spot with three separate duplexes sleeping from two to 10.

Tours and guides

Insider Tasting (06 0847 1276; insidertasting.com)

Wendy Narby (English, married to a Canadian and living in Bordeaux) is a great guide who knows everyone, everywhere and everything. Book her for the day and let her drive you around town and beyond to the less well-known regions of Bordeaux. She also teaches at L'Ecole du Vin.

Decanter Tours (06 0825 0054; decantertours.com)

Texan Mary Dardenne has lived in Bordeaux for 15 years and knows her stuff. She has access to all manner of chateaux that might otherwise be off-limits and her jaunts are famously enjoyable.

La Journée Gourmande à Margaux (05 5600 6600; bordeaux-tourisme.com)

This makes a fine day out from the city centre, a trip to four of Margaux's best-known chateaux: Kirwan, Rauzan-Gassies, Tour de Bessan and Prieuré-Lichine. For £77 per person, you visit the chateaux, taste the wines and learn about winemaking. You also discover more about Margaux, its terroir and cultural heritage, before dining in some style with the owners.

jonathan.ray@telegraph.co.uk