Strasbourg, France

By Sasha Bates

At that age, a year studying in this spectacularly beautiful city on the banks of the Rhine was, I felt, best spent in bars. Fortunately, this being Alsace, where everything is imbued with the character of its unusual history, those Winstubs, as they are called, were charming and unique, with the beer locally brewed. But it explains why on my return, 20 years later, I felt like I was discovering it afresh.

I’d forgotten just how easy it is to get around – the city centre is tiny and encircled by the lovely Ill river. As dusk fell, we walked the circular riverside path, passing dog walkers, fishermen and picnickers sipping sundowners on the banks.

It was a surprisingly rural introduction to what is actually the seventh largest city in France – which we set out to explore in more detail the next day. My primary mission was nostalgic – to visit the areas I remembered.

The cathedral in its cobbled square, filled with buskers, street artists and quirky shops, was followed by La Petite France – an area named by the Germans during the years when they were in control. Like much of Strasbourg it is a lovely maze of streets overhung by crooked, brightly coloured, half-timbered houses, but here the charm is multiplied by its position among canals, locks and waterfalls.
 
When Strasbourg returned to French rule in 1918 the epithet “German quarter” was given to the streets and squares of elegant and imposing 19th-century mansions built by Emperor Willem II. This area came as more of a surprise; I’d forgotten its varied and stunning architecture. I’d also forgotten just how many superb churches and museums there are.

Not many would have piqued my interest back then, but one that might have done, had it been around, is the recently opened Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. This marvel shows, I like to think, that both Strasbourg and I have matured and can celebrate the new without forgetting our roots.

Talking of moving on, another new museum, the Alsace Moselle Memorial, pays testament to the years during the Second World War when the region was annexed by the Nazis. The memorial is situated an hour out of town, a perfect excuse to experience the gorgeous countryside in the foothills of the Vosges mountains.

I wish I’d had more curiosity as a teenager and made the most of Strasbourg and Alsace. Returning for just five days was not nearly enough. Having said that, I loved every minute of both trips, and my only regret is having waited 20 years to go back.

GETTING THERE

Rail Europe (0844 848 4070; www.raileurope.co.uk) offers return train fares from London from £99; Air France (0871 663 3777; www.airfrance.co.uk) offers returns from £305.

GETTING AROUND

Use the excellent tram system or hire one of the Vélocation bikes (www.velocation.net).

THE INSIDE TRACK

Buy a Strasbourg Pass from the tourist office by the cathedral (88 522828; www.otstrasbourg.fr) for free entry to many venues, and half price entry to others; it pays for itself after two visits.
Swap café for a coffee by changing countries – hire a bike from Vélocation (see above) and cycle across the Rhine to Germany. You can be there and back in less than an hour.
Visit the picturesque villages and the vineyards of the wine routes – Haut Koenigsbourg Castle or the Alsace Moselle Memorial. Hire a car from the train station or make the most of the scenery and book a guided cycle trip with Espace Randonée (88 892607; www.espace-randonee.com).
With two breweries in town the beer is great; the widest choice is at Village de la Bière (88 369004; 22 rue des Freres)
Gingerbread is a regional speciality – for the best visit Pain d’Epices (88 323334; 14 rue des Dentelles).

THE BEST HOTELS

Hotel Suisse, £

Typically French and utterly charming, and with a fantastic tea room, which also does great breakfasts. Location can’t be bettered – we could see the cathedral while lying in bed (88 352211; www.hotel-suisse.com; doubles from £68).

Le Grand Hotel ££

Newly refurbished and ultra modern. If you arrive by train it has a perfect location opposite the station. The pleasant stroll into town takes five minutes (88 528484; www.le-grand-hotel.com; doubles from £158).

Regent Petite France £££

Very luxurious, with a wonderful location in the heart of La Petite France, this former ice warehouse straddles the canal, so windows on both sides of our room looked over the water and the noise of the lock lulled us to sleep (88 764343; www.regent-petite-france.com; doubles from £238).

THE BEST RESTAURANTS

Flamme and Co £

A fun take on an Alsatian speciality, the Tarte Flambée, a sort of tomato-free pizza. Contemporary toppings such as scallops with truffle oil and “piña colada” (90 401945; www.flammeandco.fr).

Le Clou ££

Located in one of the small cobbled streets near the cathedral; fantastically cosy and atmospheric, with panelled walls and the richly patterned deep red tablecloths characteristic of the region; the food is perfect for meat-lovers (88 321167; www.le-clou.com).

Au Crocodile £££

An upmarket Strasbourg institution, with one Michelin star. Despite the elegant and gracious surroundings, it avoids pretension and the food is sublime (88 321302; www.au-crocodile.com).

Le Buerehisel £££

Another one-star restaurant with a long history and a great location in the heart of the Orangerie Park. The food was high quality, with some unusual combinations, and there is an impressive wine list (88 455665; www.buerehiesel.fr).

WHAT TO AVOID

Maison Kammerzell and the restaurants closest to the cathedral in Rue du Marocain – they look quaint but they are touristy.
The zoo in the Orangerie Park. While the garden is delightful I found the concrete zoo, with its small enclosures, depressing.
Don’t wait until afternoon to buy a ticket for the boatrip round the river L’Ill as the queues are long – go first thing and buy a timed ticket for later instead.
Don’t drive in the centre of town – it’s trying and unnecessary.
January to March – winter here is harsh and grim.Telegraph